After slowly driving down the Baja California peninsula , relaxing at various beach locations, we reached Loreto. A pretty town, and the smartest place we had been since arriving in Mexico; a lot of American ex pats live here. 

We had decided to do a boat tour as we’d been told you often see dolphins, sea lions and blue footed boobies on the tour. What an amazing day we had out on the Sea of Cortez, around the island of Coronado, which is part of a UNESCO Heritage site and the Bahia de Loreto National Park in Mexico.

We didn’t have many expectations of this trip; we thought we might see a few dolphins, some sea lions and hopefully some blue footed boobies. There were four of us on our small boat, us and another couple. After a short while at sea the captain said whales had been sighted and start steering towards the spot. There were actually two humpback whales, probably a mum and baby and maybe two others. What a spectacle! We were watching these whales for about 45 minutes doing full breaches, tail slaps and playing and then some dolphins came along. The dolphins swam around the boat and then they swam with the whales and this lasted for quite a while too. We were really pleased with this and it really made our day, and probably our trip to Mexico. 

Then the captain said we’re heading out further; he had been told there’s a super pod of dolphins feeding. Full steam ahead! In the distance we could see the water looked like it was boiling. There were about 1000 dolphins, up and down, in and out; they were spinner dolphins feeding. At one point, we seem to be surrounded by dolphins, sweeping in and out of the water, including baby dolphins! We even saw a sea lion in amongst all of them, looking a bit clumsy compared to the dolphins. I can’t even begin to describe how happy it made us feel. All of us on the boat, including the captain, were super happy to experience this. 🤩 🤩 🤩

After we had seen the dolphins, we steered over to see the sea lions. Well, we could hear them before we could see them, barking away. We saw them basking in the sea, the fins and the heads just poking out the water. We saw some lying on some lovely rock formations, relaxing. We could see them up close, their fur coats were beautiful. They were watching us and we were watching them! There was one in particular that was very curious and kept chatting away. We saw a couple of pups as well, so cute! We also saw lots of pelicans nesting and resting. We had expressed a desire to see the blue footed boobies. When we first saw them, they were too far away or flying, so we couldn’t see their feet but then we came round another corner and there were five sitting on the rock. And yes, we could see their blue feet, such a beautiful colour.

We consider ourselves so lucky to have seen the feeding frenzy of dolphins, not something you can plan for! We had hoped to see humpback whales in Nova Scotia, when we started our trip in Canada last July. We did seem them, but it was foggy, and we didn’t have good visuals on them. This experience of seeing up to four, and full breaches made up for that!

After Loreto we started heading north again. We knew that on the route up to another lovely bay, there was short hike that leads to more cave paintings. We thought this would be interesting to see. Unfortunately we did not factor in the weather, namely the 36^oC heat. We did the walk but we did suffer for it, and strangely enough, we didn’t see anyone else! Still, it was interesting. When we got to the sea, we couldn’t wait to get our feet wet! 

We enjoyed our few days at this beach, Playa El Coyotes, on the Bay of Conception. It is a beautiful bay, the water is so clear and blue, but Charlie, the world’s most friendly dog, was the highlight! He was rescued there about 5 years before, by a Canadian couple, who return every year. Charlie loves to take himself for swims or paddles, and he makes friends with everyone! 🤩 We also had a lovely meal in this area; we kayaked around to the next bay and went to a lovely beach restaurant. We did have a little upset here, Kermit 2, died. Kermit 2 was our inflatable kayak, which we hadn’t used too much on the trip. We had got it out and used it a couple of times but we had left in sitting in the sun, and a seam melted and it no longer floats! 😝😆

A highlight of our time in Baja California has been seeing the Ospreys. We have seen so many here, and we often see special platforms placed so they can make their nests. On our last day at Coyotes two came cheeping and soaring over the bay hunting, it was amazing 🤩 

As we drove through, back towards the USA, another highlight was seeing the Valle de Los Cirios, a forest of boojum trees (or Cirios, Spanish for candles), cardon cacti and boulders. It is another, amazing world!

We drove up the Pacific coast and the drive from El Rosarita to Ensenada provided a great variety of landscape. We saw so much agriculture, crops included strawberries and other berries, prickly pears, tomatoes – to onions; we were also starting to see many more cows. Some beautifully tended vines were starting to come to leaf, and we stopped at one vineyard overnight, enjoying their beautiful grounds and views, ok, and wine!😝

We had thought about staying near Ensenada, a waterfront town near the border for our last night in Mexico. We visited La Bufadora, a natural blowhole and were significantly unimpressed. First of all, it is a highly touristic place; there were coach loads of tourists arriving, probably off cruise ships. Shops were selling knick knacks, pina coladas, sweets and tacos, and hawkers were prolific. Interestingly there was also about 4 pharmacies, I assume this is because most tourists are American and the medication is cheaper in Mexico than the USA. The blowhole itself was good, but not great. So, we drove on through Ensenada, and weren’t that bothered about spending any time there so drove back to Francisco Zarko, where we had stayed on our first night in Baja, symmetry. We had a pleasant evening, chatted with a couple from Argentina, who have done the Pan American highway and are now travelling and living in their Berlingo van! He is a very talented artists and was there to paint a mural on the side of the Brewery building.

The following morning, we drove to Tecate, nice and straightforward until we got there, and joined the queue! Two hours later we passed through border control, but they let us back in for another 6 months!!

Next stop, San Diego, off to see Stereophonics and get new boots for Shaun………………..

An ode to Baja – Baja‘s Wild Symphony

Where desert meets the endless sea,

A land of wild and beauty.

The Baja Sun, both face and bright,

Sets the waves aglow with golden light. 

Through waters deep, the giants roam,

Grey whales return to calving homes.

Humpback leap in joyful flight,

Their echoes haunting through the night.

And oh, the dolphins, swift and free,

Spinning, diving in ecstasy.

A feeder frenzy – chaos, swirls,

Fish like silver, caught in the whirls.

The desert hums with whispered tales,

Where cardons rise like mighty sails.

The galloping cacti, wild and strange,

Drift where shifting sands arrange.

The cholla’s thorns, the Ocotillos’ spires,

Flames of green in the sunburnt fires.

The twisted Boojum, tall and thin,

A dream like ghost, with Spindly limbs.

Above, the Osprey’s wheel and glide,

Their piercing cries the wind’s old guide.

Pelicans skim in perfect rows, 

On waves that shimmer, rise, and glow.

The frigatebirds, with pirate grace,

Steal from those who hunt the chase.

And by the cliffs, in laughing flight

Blue footed boobies, bold and bright.

But venture forth on dusty trails,

And Baja’s roads will test the frail.

The potholes gape, a ruthless maze,

A tyre’s doom in heat hazed days.

Yet still we go, through dust and stone,

For Baja’s call is deep, unknown.

A land where ocean, sky and sand,

Compose a tune, both fierce and grand.

(Credit to ChatGBT)