Utah is a big state—so one post just doesn’t do it justice. After our time in Canyonlands, we continued our journey along Scenic Highway 12, which skirts the northern edge of Capitol Reef National Park. Even from the road, we could see how busy it was, but it was lovely to glimpse the park’s famous orchards, adding lush green to the otherwise red rock landscape.

The next day, we set off on bikes toward the Capitol Reef Scenic Drive. To our surprise, it was wonderfully quiet. The route led us to a trailhead for a walk to the base of the Golden Throne, where we were rewarded with sweeping views across the park. All told, we cycled 40 miles that day—and, as is tradition, the wind was against us on the way back! We continue to congratulate ourselves on buying e-bikes. They’ve made cycling not just doable, but actually enjoyable in these wide open spaces.

Though we only had a short stay near Capitol Reef (there’s a lot more to hike there!), we pushed on deeper into Utah. Driving through Dixie National Forest, we passed thousands of Aspens, their delicate leaves shimmering in the breeze—hence the names Quaking or Trembling Aspen. It’s a mesmerising sight.

We stopped in the tiny town of Boulder to visit the Anasazi State Park Museum, which offered a fascinating look at life for the Ancestral Puebloans who lived in the region over a thousand years ago. We explored reconstructed dwellings and learned about their food, tools, and daily life—it was well worth the stop.

That night we camped at Lower Calf Creek, a BLM-managed site with just 13 pitches. We’ve learned to arrive early to snag a spot, and once again, we were lucky. The site was tucked into a pretty canyon, sheltered from the wind, and right at the trailhead for a beautiful hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls. The walk itself was a bit tough—lots of deep sand and heat—but the waterfall at the end made it all worthwhile.

The following day brought another short bike ride and another trail. This time we hiked to a Natural Bridge, crossing the Escalante River several times to get to it. The natural bridge is a lovely sight:-

The camping spot was peaceful and scenic, but we had more ground to cover. We drove on to Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, where we stayed the night and did a short loop walk through hills scattered with petrified wood in a kaleidoscope of colors. The fact that this process began 135–155 million years ago is mind-blowing!

Next up: Zebra Canyon, a striking slot canyon known for its narrow, striped rock walls. The adventure started with an 8-mile ride each way down a brutally bumpy washboard road. Honestly, by the end I felt like one of those trembling aspens—every part of me was shaking! But the canyon itself was worth every jolt (I think).

From there, we headed to Kodachrome Basin State Park, another Utah gem. We parked for free on nearby BLM land—always a win when you get solitude and a view.

We spent two days exploring the park’s surreal rock formations, which got us excited for our next stop: Bryce Canyon.

Bryce was just a short hop away, and we’d managed to get a site inside the national park—ideal for early morning hikes and sunset views. The park is an absolute marvel. Hoodoos in shades of red, orange, and pink rise in clusters like a fantasy kingdom. We spent a few days exploring on foot and by bike, pedalling the scenic road and walking down into the amphitheatre. We could easily have stayed longer—there are so many hikes we didn’t get to—but adventure was calling elsewhere.

Less than an hour away, we found another free camp spot at Red Canyon, still surrounded by hoodoos but without the crowds. We hiked in near solitude, soaking in the scenery and the quiet. These free, dispersed camping areas are often our favorite—fewer neighbors, better views, and plenty of space to breathe.

Our final Utah stop brought us north to Antelope Island State Park, near Salt Lake City. We’d heard this was a great spot to see bison, and we weren’t disappointed. We watched two nursing herds along the shoreline, backed by distant mountains and a mirror-like lake. It was peaceful and wild all at once.

We’d been warned about mosquitoes, and they were indeed fierce—but our Thermacells worked a treat, keeping the bugs at bay. We’re hoping they’ll prove just as effective when we get to Alaska, home of the super-sized mosquito!

We ended our Utah adventure with a glowing sunset over the water, feeling grateful for the state’s incredible diversity—canyons, forests, rivers, and deserts, all in one grand journey.

So… is Utah our favourite state so far?

It just might be.