Our first night in Wyoming was spent in the charming little town of Alpine. We found a gorgeous boondocking spot right on the Snake River—conveniently located next to a brewery. Not only were the views absolutely stunning from our spot, but we could also stroll over to the brewery for a bite to eat and something cold to drink. It was definitely one of our favourite stops—certainly one of Mark’s favourites!

The next morning treated us to a beautiful sunrise before we set off down the valley toward Jackson. Along the way, we stopped at a well-known spot to watch whitewater rafters take on the rapids—and we were lucky enough to see a group of brave (or crazy?)  adventurers make it through successfully.

When we arrived in Jackson, we checked into a pricey campground for the night— the most expensive one we’ve stayed in—and ironically, not one of the nicest. The pitches were tight, and although we were backed by pretty alpine trees, they released a fine yellow pollen that blew over everything when the wind picked up. Shaun needed a good clean afterwards!

We stayed there because we were going to the Jackson Rodeo that evening—something we’d both really wanted to experience in the U.S. A helpful fellow at an auto parts store told Mark that Jackson’s rodeo is the real deal, with serious competitors and a loyal local following. 

Before the rodeo, we explored downtown Jackson, a busy and touristy town. Someone had recommended the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, so we popped in for a look. It’s quirky, with bar stools shaped like saddles that you have to swing a leg over to mount—fun, but very touristy, and not really our scene. So we wandered on and found another bar with a view of the ski lift, which was operating despite it being summer.

Then came the rodeo—and what a show! It was sold out, with every seat full. We loved it. It was a proper family event, full of atmosphere, and we were especially impressed by the skills of the riders and the rescue riders who swooped in once the cowboys were done. And of course, the rodeo clown was brilliant, getting the crowd going between events.

Back at our campground, Mark had discovered that we’d broken another wheel stud. This meant another round of changing wheels and a second night at the expensive Jackson campground while we sorted it out. On Monday, Mark found a garage and swapped out the wheel rim, hoping the spare might resolve the recurring issue. Fingers crossed!

With some extra time in Jackson, we decided to cycle out to Grand Teton National Park. On the way, we visited the National Museum of Wildlife Art, which had a special outdoor exhibit featuring life-sized elephants made from invasive plant species by artisans in India. We’d actually seen these elephants before—in London’s Hyde Park and again (briefly) being removed from the Meatpacking District in New York—so spotting them here overlooking the Elk Refuge felt serendipitous. The museum also had some beautiful indoor art and a lovely café where we had a tasty lunch with another view of the refuge. Double tick for food and setting!

We continued our ride into Grand Teton National Park and stopped at Mormon Row—famous for its iconic barns and homesteads against the backdrop of the Tetons. I tried to recreate the classic photograph taken there, but I’m not sure I quite pulled it off!

Finally, we moved into Grand Teton National Park itself and managed to get a pitch at Colter Bay Campground. While it’s a bit far from the main trailheads, it’s surrounded by beautiful forest and is well-maintained. To explore more easily, we used our bikes to get around—although cycling on the park roads wasn’t always stress-free. There’s a shoulder, but not everyone driving big vehicles seems to know how wide their RV is. Mark had a few close calls with wing mirrors!

We did two memorable bike rides during our stay. The first was to Signal Mountain for a panoramic view. While we were admiring the scenery, someone came up and asked if the bikes parked below were ours—because a raven had managed to unzip one of our saddle bags and was rooting around inside! Fortunately, we weren’t carrying food in there, but we were impressed by the bird’s problem-solving skills.

The second ride was up to Jenny Lake, where we caught the shuttle boat across and hiked up into the Tetons themselves. The trail wound past lovely waterfalls and deep into a canyon. It was a beautiful hike—and the highlight was spotting a moose from a safe distance, browsing quietly among the willows.

After several days soaking up the beauty of the Tetons, solving a few wheel mysteries, and dodging mischievous ravens, we were beyond excited to head to our next adventure: Yellowstone National Park! 🤩