Alaska Adventures = Rough Roads, Wild Landscapes, and Once-in-a-Lifetime Moments

Well, we made it to Alaska, and the border crossing back into the USA was smooth, the Border Protection Officer even offered to put a stamp in our passports, something that doesn’t often get done now, in these days of everything being done online!

The Road to Chicken: Quirky and Rugged
Driving the rough road into Chicken, Alaska, was bouncy! When we arrived it felt like stepping back in time. It’s a quirky little place, straight out of a prospector’s storybook. We even met a character we nicknamed Stinky Pete, a gold prospector chewing tobacco. Mark even gave it a try — let’s just say once was enough!

The drive itself was long and slow, miles and miles of trees and valleys unfolding with every bump and rattle. Thankfully, our Milepost Guidebook proved to be an invaluable resource in the cab — not just for pointing out places of interest but also for preparing us for road conditions.

Along the way we crossed paths with RV groups traveling together, their trips fully preplanned — campgrounds, meals and trips all bundled in. They describe themselves as adventure groups!!

Watching Tourists & Scenic Highways
Entertainment on the road doesn’t just come from the views — people-watching adds its own flavor. We loved watching fellow tourists take photos, especially Chinese travelers who set up multiple poses and shots, often with a sense of fun that made us laugh along with them.

Then came one of the most spectacular stretches: the road into Valdez. Calling it a scenic byway almost undersells it. Glaciers surrounded us, waterfalls tumbled down cliffs, and the views kept getting better with every mile. Bridal Veil Falls in Keystone Canyon was small but stunning, fed by pure glacial meltwater. It was, without doubt, our most scenic drive yet — though I suspect Alaska will keep raising the bar.

Wildlife Wonders at Solomon Gulch
We had been told the Solomon Gulch Hatchery was the place to see a feeding frenzy — and it didn’t disappoint, as the salmon were returning to spawn. Sea lions barked and shook salmon, seabirds wheeled overhead, and then, to our amazement, a bear appeared.

He nonchalantly plucked fish from the stream, tearing them open only for the eggs — a concentrated source of protein — and leaving the remains behind. Afterward, we walked past where he’d been, seeing the aftermath: salmon carcasses split open, gulls and kittiwakes squabbling over scraps. Standing there in the drizzle, with the tide coming in and the sounds of sea lions, birds, and rushing water all around us, it felt like pure, raw Alaska.

The next morning brought another kind of magic: mist clinging low to the mountains, clouds shifting to reveal towering peaks, and families fishing the riverside. It was simple but beautiful, the kind of memory that lingers.

Valdez: Boats, Glaciers, and Ordinary Charm
Valdez is a small port town. It had to move to its current position following the 1964 earthquake and subsequent tsunami that all but destroyed the old town. We enjoyed walking through the town, looking at all the fishing boats, both commercial and sport fishing and watching the fishermen come back in with their catches and professional fish preparers working. There is a business close to the harbor that specialises in preparing the fish and freezing it for transportation.

We took a cruise on the Lu-Lu Belle with Captain Fred. We had seen great reviews about this trip, and they were all correct. The boat had been hand built by Captain Fred, and it even had Persian carpets on the floor and teak fittings and furnishings. His crew also made homemade food, the blueberry muffins melted in our mouths as did the afternoon chocolate brownies!

Captain Fred talked for almost the whole trip, about 10 hours, telling us information about what we were seeing and the history of the area. Of course, the sights and views were outstanding; we saw our first raft of sea otters, orcas hunting sea lions, puffins and seals. We were a little disappointed we didn’t see any humpback whales. We then went to see the Columbia Icefield, but due to the large amounts of floating ice Captain Fred could not get us in too close, but he did take us to see two other smaller ones that were calving.

The scenery surrounding the town is magnificent, but the town itself felt rather ordinary compared to the wild landscapes around it.

Wrangell–St. Elias: Rough Roads, Rich History
From there we tackled the 60-mile drive into Wrangell–St. Elias National Park. “Rough” doesn’t quite cover it — long stretches of washboard gravel had us shaking in our seats. It took us about 5 hours in Shaun to do this journey. Other vehicle do it faster, but I don’t know if it is anymore comfortable for them. But the payoff was immense.

We camped with a glacier view, the Stairway Icefall  in the distance. At night we could even hear the glacier groaning and cracking  — a reminder that the landscape here is always alive and shifting.

Cycling into Kennecott Village was a highlight. We left our bikes and hiked to the toe of the Root Glacier, strapping on crampons to walk on the ice. Staying on the well-used paths, we explored shimmering blue pools, meltwater streams, and icy waterfalls. Watching the glacier shift from gritty grey to brilliant white and deep blue was unforgettable. Fresh bear scat on the trail there kept us alert — but luckily, no encounters!

Later, we wandered through McCarthy, a quirky town full of history. We stopped at the saloon, where the bartender, amusingly enough, hailed from Boston. The next day we returned to Kennecott, exploring the old copper mining buildings and learning about the people who once worked and lived there. Cycling back along the old wagon road past the cemetery was equal parts bumpy and fascinating. The ranger had warned us it was “bear territory” and “a little rough” — quite the understatement. Due to the fear of bears, I had to cycle over this rough terrain a little more quickly than I liked, quite exhilarating!

Now the small matter of driving back out, back along the rough 60 mile road we had driven in on. Somehow, it didn’t feel quite so bad going out!

Now, on our way to Denali National Park, a drive along the Glenn Highway which was relatively smooth. After the McCarthy Road, it would feel that way wouldn’t it!

We had hoped to visit Hatchers Pass and Independence Mine, a gold mine which is now a history piece, but the weather was poor, with low cloud which would have diminished the experience, so we decided we would leave that as we would be passing nearby it again before we left Alaska. 

So next stop Denali, will it be worth our while??

Final Thoughts
Alaska is a land of contrasts: quirky towns, endless forests, roaring wildlife, and roads that shake every bone in your body. But the rewards — the glaciers, the wildlife encounters, the history, and the sheer majesty of the landscapes — make every slow, rattling mile worth it.

Alaska has a way of stealing your heart — the scenery is jaw-dropping, but the roads? Well, let’s just say they test your patience.